Malawi is known as "the warm heart of Africa" because of the renowned friendliness of its population. Everywhere you go in this small but delightful country you are greeted with a wave and a smile. Malawi isn't a major tourist destination, mainly because it lacks enormous game reserves, but for anyone who has the itch to explore and discover the real Africa, Malawi is the perfect place to start.
Malawi's Geography
Sandwiched by Mozambique in the south, with Zambia and Tanzania on the northern borders, Malawi forms part of the southern edge of the Great Rift Valley. Most of the Western edge of the country is well above sea level, with the central and northern plateaus rising to several thousand feet, with intermittent peaks dotted around. The Eastern Edge slides into the Rift itself and forms the vast expanse of Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa; whilst the lake-shore itself remains above sea level, there is a noticeable difference in temperature and climate between the shoreline and the higher plateaus.
These geological features ensure that Malawi has a varied and changing landscape that constantly fascinates, from the slopes of Mt Mulanje in the south, through the dramatic Livingstone escarpment, the Zomba plateau and the exotic and mysterious Nyika plateau in the north where you can find stunning views into Zambia and Tanzania.
Malawi's major cities: Blantyre, Lilongwe and Mzuzu
Malawi's cities are not huge, although Blantyre, Malawi's economic hub, situated in the south, has over a million inhabitants; as such they are not really geared for tourism, however they have their own pleasures. Blantyre has several decent hotels, the best is probably the Mount Soche Hotel, and an interesting mix of colonial and modern African architecture. Shopping is not extensive (or expensive), but curio shops are well stocked.
Lilongwe, the capital, also has close to a million inhabitants and it's chief interest lies in the fact that it is split into the Old Town which was built when Malawi was part of the British Empire; and the New Town, built after independence. Consequently the old town has a more ramshackle colonial feel, whilst the new town has wide roads and spread out municipal buildings in the manner of Paris or Washington D.C. albeit without the impressive monuments. Again, Lilongwe is a pleasant place, with some nice hotels and one or two decent shops, but a day is all you will need to see the sights
Mzuzu, in the north, is essentially a transit point before the Tanzanian border or the Nyika Plateau, although, like all African cities it has a bustling market-place. Mzuzu itself is small and apart from stopping over for a good nights rest and a friendly welcome, there isn't a great deal to see. This is not to undersell it's charm, but it's main purpose is to enable you to rest. Do so and then move on.
Zomba
Zomba is about the same size as Mzuzu and in colonial days used to be the Capital City, before Government moved to Lilongwe ten years after Independence. Zomba itself has the same ramshackle colonial feel as can be found elsewhere in Malawi, although the old government buildings are worth a look. But Zomba town, whilst interesting and attractive, is not the main event; what you come here to see is the stunning Plateau.
Rising abruptly from the landscape, the Zomba massif looms over the town. A startling and precipitous drive takes you to the top, where some truly stunning views can be seen. This isn't the end of the story however, as the plateau has a much cooler micro-climate, allowing a wide and fascinating variety of plant life, as well as pine forest, though in truth it isn't so much a plantation as a jungle.
There are several lodges, most notably the Ku Chawe inn: mountain biking, horse riding, fishing and trekking are on offer and the cool mountain air is extremely refreshing; quite often the plateau is covered by chiperoni (a very handy Malawian word, loosely translated as mist, although in reality it is low lying cloud) which lends the forests a mysterious primeval feel. Up here, it is extremely easy to forget it's the 21st century, simply put it is a breathtaking place.
Lake Malawi
'The Lake' as it is known locally, is Malawi's biggest draw. It is also an enormous expanse of water, being 580 kilometers long and 75 kilometers wide (at the widest point). Home to the famous Cichlid fish beloved of aquarium owners, it is known as the 'Lake of Stars', either because of the effect of the suns rays on the lake surface, or because of the effect of fishermen's lanterns at night. The latter is supposed to have inspired David Livingston.
The most beautiful shore areas are in the south around Cape Maclear, and unsurprisingly there are a plethora of hotels, lodges and guest houses. These vary in quality, so travelers should be aware that they will definitely get what they pay for. Cheap guesthouses will be extremely basic whilst the expensive hotels will at least have all the amenities with added leisure activities. There are some stunning luxury camps including Mumbo Island, but you don't have to break the budget to have a lovely time on the lake shore.
Whilst Cape Maclear is undoubtedly the most scenic part, as you travel along the lake shore, you will not be lost for accommodation. The best stop off points on the trek north are Salima, Nkotakota, the historic mission at Livingstonia and Karonga. Livingstonia is an especially pretty area, although the roads are extremely difficult to negotiate.
The Ilala cruise
If you want to try something completely different, you could book a cruise on the S.S. Ilala, the only major lake faring vessel. The Ilala is a lake institution, having plowed a lonely furrow up and down the lake for nearly sixty years, it's main purpose being to provide transport for people and goods to the less accessible parts of the lake, so it's lower decks are awash with traveling locals and their wares. The upper decks are reserved for tourists with a few basic cabins, a sun deck and bar. The cruise lasts anything from three days to a week. It is a slow and very relaxing way to see some stunning vistas along the entire length and breadth of the lake, including part of the Mozambique edge and the pretty Likoma Islands, where the best accommodation is the exquisite KayaMawa Lodge.
A word of warning about this cruise, don't expect luxury, the Ilala is anything but. Everything, from the food to the accommodation is basic and wear your least favourite clothes as they will get filthy, but don't let this put you off either. The Ilala belongs to another world and you are unlikely to go on as unique a cruise again in your lifetime, the views alone are worth it and it is a very friendly, sociable ship, so you are bound to have a good time.
Nyika
Nyika is Zomba plus. It is an extremely large plateau, higher and more isolated than it's smaller southern cousin. There are no major towns close by, so unlike the rest of Malawi, it is almost devoid of human habitation. Even if there were thousands living at the foot of Nyika, the roads to the top would prevent most of them getting there. These roads will be fun if you like 4x4 off-roading. Otherwise, they are a nightmare. If you have hired a 4x4 yourself, make sure you have a cell phone and the number of several contacts in the area in case you break down. The entire plateau is a National Park.
Nyika has a unique landscape and biome. The rolling hills and grassland almost blend into the horizon, and some of the views from the plateau edge are out of this world. Bird watchers will have a field day with 435 recorded species and everyone else will thrill to the sight of the Zebra, Roan and Eland.
Horse Safaris are available from the Chelinda Lodge, as are the usual trekking, mountain-biking and fly-fishing. Night safaris are an interesting and spooky touch, especially when the hyaena are cackling away. The mountain air gets cold at night, so take some warm clothing. Once the lights go out, total, absolute darkness closes in, which can be extremely disconcerting for city dwellers. Don't worry, you're completely safe and witches don't really ride on hyaenas backs.
Personal safety, Money and Medical precautions in Malawi
Like all poor countries Malawi has issues with crime and disease. This needn't be a worry for you if you take sensible precautions. Visit your doctor for advice on which medicines to take and which vaccines you must have. Malaria is prevalent through most of the country and Bilharzia lives in the lake snails. Plan for this beforehand and you won't be at much risk of contracting either, failing to plan for them will lead to a visit to one of Malawi's already over worked Hospitals. As for crime, ask your embassy for travel advice and once you are in Malawi, talk to the locals to find out where you can and can't go.
Keep your passport on you at all times if you are staying in a small guesthouse. Occasionally you might be asked for a bribe, but usually this is just an official pushing his luck and they won't be offended if you politely but firmly refuse. Malawi doesn't have a bribe culture unlike some other african countries.
The local currency is the Kwacha, however most hotels prefer to be paid in US dollars, so take plenty of travelers cheques, some cash and your credit card. Hotel rooms are expensive, but the locally brewed Carlsberg (or 'Green' if you want to sound knowledgeable) is cheap, so it balances out in the end. Whatever you do, don't drink the local beer Chibuku.
Malawi caters for almost everything a person looking for adventure could wish for. If you decide you go, you won't regret it and you will enjoy the unique sights and sounds of this beautiful country.
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